: I've found mixing large batches of resin will add extra weight to your boat,
: especially when poured into the hull. Resin poured into the hull will
: float the glass and a lot of excess resin can get trapped adding a lot of
: weight.
: Resin starts to thicken the moment you add the hardener. It's hard to
: perceive this until it really kicks. I've learned unless the resin is very
: new (small batches, I never mix more than 6 oz.) and very thin, you will
: never remove excess resin because it will not travel out of the glass when
: you try to remove it with a squeegee.
: If you don't mind the extra weight, that's fine, but if you don't realize it
: will do this, that's another matter.
I measure out the epoxy/hardener using syringes - I think they are 10cc sized. A large batch for me is 180cc resin and 60cc hardener. Spreading time for me this time around was not more than 15 minutes. The cured finish showed the weave without starvation, meaning the glass weave showed but was completely translucent. I have no idea how many oz's this works out to but as it worked this time around, I did not have to deal with past problems of epoxy getting too thick to manage before it was used up.
: There should be no difference in application time for a squeegee or roller.
: If you roll back and forth until the glass looks totally wet, than it will
: take you longer using a roller. But that's not a good technique. If you
: roll over the glass and keep moving, you'll find in a minute the glass you
: rolled earlier, will absorb the resin and be wet-out.
You are right, the epoxy needs time to soak in to cause the glass to look wet. My past sin was waiting to see that wet-look before moving the epoxy onto more dry glass...the extra epoxy spreading I did caused me to take too long to move forward thus allowing time for my epoxy batch to thicken before I could use it all up. The additional problem I encountered in the past was having the epoxy set on the roller, which further complicated my life as a glasser. At least wtih the squeegee I don't have that problem. For me, I am certain that it's just a technical issue. I do like to take my time to ensure that the epoxy has been spread properly and that the weave isn't starved. The squeegee allows me to touch up the wetted surface before the epoxy sets too much.
: Everyone's in a hurry. This idea that doing something faster is better, is
: wrong.
: In my experience doing something fast, takes a lot more time, than doing
: something right. Doing things fast almost always leads to time spent
: correcting mistakes.
Yes, you are right, no doubt. I built my first 4 kayaks "in a hurry" and definitely did not get the ideal smoothest finish I could have achieved. The current project is different...I don't need to get it done ASAP, so I have been working to ensure I get a very smooth finish this time around. So far the finished work I have achieved looks good - I know I won't have to do much sanding to get that smooth finish I have yet to achieve. No mistakes so far (other than that one air bubble). I have been working extra careful this time around partly because I am teaching a friend how to build his first kayak and I want his to be near-perfect...he is a careful worker and an experienced handyman so I am sure he will get it right. He pretty much has no choice but to get it right because I won't let him get it wrong.
: As amateur builders you shouldn't need to be worried about a deadline.
: Deadlines are great generators of mistakes.
Right again! That said, as I stated before, I have been moving carefully with this project. This is my third project done from plans and I took huge pains to make certain that the panels were shaped exactly the same. Hell will freeze over before I allow anything to mess up all the work I have done thus far. I made enough mistakes with my first project because I was rushing due to the excitment I felt working on what I considered to be my first true craftsman type project. The more I build, the easier it has been to get it right the first time and I have definitely learned how to shorten building time and still build well. All of this skill development I have been doing via building S&G is prepping me for the NH stripper I will continue on with just as soon as I finish up the S&G project. The strip project has been on hold since my divorce process began and I have been frustrated in my attempts to get it going again. It's been 5 years since I got the plans and cut the forms/built the strongback: it's time to get it going. I have thought out deck patters and strip technique and fully expect this project to be my finest yet. I figure that it will take me almost 2-yrs to complete, largely because of the inlay work I want to do on the deck. Should make for a very interesting run. I am certain that I won't get much done on the strip project because my summers are dedicated to paddling since the season is so short up here.
: As a professional builder who has to make a few bucks an hour I have to
: figure out how not to waste time. Not wasting time is not the same as
: doing things fast.
Once I get all the kayaks built that I have in waiting (only 4 left to build), I am thinking of building one or two each year to sell, not to get rich but to earn a little vacation $$$ and, of course, as an excuse to keep building and refining my skills as a builder. During the last month I have had a few folks ask me if I built the kayaks to sell...sadly, I said no but I think I can sell one or two a year. Be nice to keep doing this into retirement...that'd make this old man happy.
: Have fun!
Always! I am taking the NH S&G on the water this weekend as a preliminary launch to see how she performs. I'll have to deck glassed tonight (onlaying real maple leaves), the coaming on tomorrow and the footpegs installed Saturday. I have also rigged up a temporary back support (basically a pillow) using duct tape and scraps of foam sheeting that I saved when Linda (my main squeeze) got her kitchen cabinets replaced. I have a spare WD S&G seat which can fit the NH - it won't be attached to the hull but it works well for a temp.
Robert N Pruden
Messages In This Thread
- Material: fiberglass roller and visqueen question *LINK*
uga_danny -- 6/26/2009, 6:56 pm- Re: Material: fiberglass roller and visqueen quest
Rob Macks / Laughing Loon CC&K -- 6/26/2009, 8:33 pm- Squeegee use
Robert N Pruden -- 6/30/2009, 3:48 pm- Re: Squeegee use
Rob Macks / Laughing Loon CC&K -- 7/1/2009, 4:39 pm- Re: Squeegee use
Robert N Pruden -- 7/2/2009, 9:32 am- Re: Squeegee use
Rob Macks / Laughing Loon CC&K -- 7/2/2009, 11:02 am- Re: Squeegee use
Robert N Pruden -- 7/2/2009, 11:43 am
- Re: Squeegee use
- Re: Squeegee use
- Re: Squeegee use
- Re: Material: fiberglass roller and visqueen quest
uga_danny -- 6/26/2009, 8:47 pm- Re: Material: fiberglass roller and visqueen quest *LINK*
Chris Sperry -- 6/27/2009, 1:12 am- Re: Material: fiberglass roller and visqueen quest
James -- 6/27/2009, 8:46 pm
- Re: Material: fiberglass roller and visqueen quest
- Re: Squeegee use
- Squeegee use
- Re: Material: fiberglass roller and visqueen quest