: I (finally!) finished aligning the forms on the (internal) strongback -
: amazingly, it looks fair! I'm about to start stripping, but discovered the
: local lumber company doesn't have any WRC available that meets my needs. I
: cut a 3/16" strip from a 3/4" WRC board I had, just to scout
: things out - no way I'm going to be able to bend that through the rather
: aggressive upsweep on the bow. So tomorrow - roadtrip, and pick up some
: 1/2 or 5/8" WRC.

: I've read the books, and have followed this forum long enough to know some of
: the tricks - thinner strips, heatgun, etc. - but when I consider the
: amount of torque those first strips are going to generate - how do you
: keep from 'modifying' that nicely aligned bow and stern form from it's
: current vertical alignment? My instructions suggest fastening the ends
: first, and then moving towards the center with the strips - but wouldn't
: it be preferable to bring the first strips together at the same time,
: evening the amount of strain on each side? (I wonder if that's even
: possible to do). Any pointers appreciated.

: BTW, although it's just the forms on a strongback, it looks to be a nice
: boat! (Storm LT)

You also don't necessarily have to start stripping at the sheer. With the bigger surface area of the bow, cheater strips are usually required anyway (see Nick's book) and it's often easier to start the stripping where the strips will more easily fall into place like just above the turn of the bilge. Course I don't use cove and bead so that may be different?

Bill H.