: How do you figure that? The foam is air bubbles surrounded by glue.
I figure that the air that is in the foam is trapped, so doesn't bleed out of the joint. When using non foaming glue, you can get open air pockets and these will cause bubbles.

: Not when it foams. At that point, it's more like expanding foam insulating
: products.
Where the glue foams in the joint there would also probably be a gap using aliphatic glue, and so whether foaming glue is strong or weak doesn't really affect the end result. Both would make a strong bond in an equal number of places. The bond that results is stronger than the wood (using bead and cove)as I found out when I redid a warped section. I was working without staples, using bungee cord to hold strip to strip. The bungee cord gives sufficient clamping strength (and the warp due to carelessness).

: If you read the instructions on the bottle, they specifically tell you that
: you should use it with tight joints and firm clamping. The manufacturers
: know what they're talking about.
I guess they do, but I think I get what they recommend. Most would know this tip, but if not, one of the tricks to PU is to moisten the wood before gluing as PU uses moisture to function. I usually mist my edges with a spray before I glue. As said, using bungee cords and moistening the wood, I have had no problems with bead and cove strips.
I agree about the paddle. It works well.
JohnK