: Find a damaged board you like the size and shape of. The underside will be
: quite flat along its width with, possibly, a very slight lift in the rear
: 12 inches, and a higher kick in the front.

: Use it as a form and strip right over it. lengthwise.

: Do the same for the deck. You can play around with the deck a bit provided
: you don't give up too much volume and you maintain the rail shape and
: angle (where the top and bottom of the board meet).

: I would leave it hollow and insert perhaps three 4mm ply bulkhead type
: stringers, with holes cut in them for lightning, with a little more
: support in the mast foot area and at the foot-strap area.

: Before you close up, glue in wooden plugs for the footstrap bolds. You can
: buy these as replacement parts or dig them out of your old board.

: You will be able to cannibalize (recycle) the mast-track and fin-box from
: your old board.

: You will need a bung to allow the board to deflate in hot weather, no sealed
: spaces inside.

: The underneath (Hull) will be faster if you varnish and then sand with 280
: wet and dry to create a sharkskin effect. The deck will be an ice-rink if
: you want a clear varnish finish. It is possible to obtain anti slip
: additives for varnish, but function is more important than beauty in this
: case, believe me.

: Put up some pics of your progress if you go ahead. If it works I might try
: one myself.

: Et

Ground up cork has been used thats easier on bare feet as a non-skid could be used on varnish. Sugar works (you disolve the sugar with water after the paint/varnish cures or sand in the paint/varnish also works, but both of these are hard on bare feet. Probably should be wearing neo boots anyway.

Hard enough trying to stand on these things (wildly hard for me ) would definately agree with Et that a pretty varnished board would look nice hanging on the wall but would be a nightmare in the water.

Bill H.