: Well....that's different. Planning on a squirt boat by chance? They are the
: only WW boats with lamination schedules anywhere near that rugged. Hard to
: avoid rocks when you're underwater looking for currents between rocks

: If you do this, remember one thing, carbide sheers are required for Kevlar
: (trade name) and can ONLY be used for Kevlar, nothing else. And you can't
: sand Kevlar so don't make any mistakes. I'm not sure that putting it
: against the ply makes any sence though, the ply will tend to move around a
: little and the Kevlar won't and that'll likely cause the bonds to fail in
: the wood. I'd instead use glass against the wood and save the high
: strength stuff for the middle of the lamination schedule where it might do
: some good.

: Bill H.

I am intending more for a steep creeking boat (at decent water levels) and technical whitewater, class IV and V stuff. I am curious to see what the added stiffness of a composite build means in a design geared towards whitewater down river performance. I am definitely paying attention to the lamination schedules of squirt boat builders, no doubt. I also think similar layups are used in composite armour plating.

It's interesting you mentioning that you think the Kevlar would do better in the middle of the laminate. I have it placed all the way on the inside, because I thought thats where its strength in Tension would do the most good. I was under the assumption that most of the inner layers are acting more from Shear and Compressive stresses on an impact, while the inner and outer layers would be in Tension and Compression respectively. I could definitely place that 6oz E-Glass Layer between the wood and the Kevlar tho. That would move the Wood more towards being in the center of the laminate, which can't hurt too much~

I definitely appreciate the input~