: I just built a strongback from rabbetted MDF to 2" x 4". It has
: couple of little curves to it.

: Nick's book is based on a "2x4" strongback and forms that have
: 2" x 4" holes, so you can true the forms on the strongback by
: taking advantage of the small difference, by shimming or using cleats
: (page 74). By building a true 2" x 4", I seem to have lost that
: option. I have no way to move the molds to accommodate the wiggles.

: Did I just screw up the strongback bigtime? If I do it again, might I get it
: right? Should I try planing the MDF strongback to true (but no longer
: 2")? Should I toss this MDF strongback and go back to 2x4's, ala
: Schade?

: -Robert

I'd echo all the responses, but I would make one recommendation. It helps a LOT if you can align the forms knowing the waterline is level.

To do this:
1 Make sure the strongback is perfectly flat (using a plane) along the top. No matter if it bends sideways a bit.
2 For each form, make sure the cut along the waterline is indeed along the waterline.

This way, you'll know that the forms are at least level, and you just have to position them to be on the centreline and rotate them to line up as necessary.

Link below is to a blog article I wrote about my experience building the strongback (for my first and current build).

Good luck!

Ian