: I like the idea of clear vinyl (I'll try not to be too rough on it) as easy
: and cheap. I do have another question though, Paul mentioned lacing the
: vinyl, then cutting it out along with the waste after gluing. Do you glue
: the hull to the frame then glue the deck to the hull? Because it seems
: that if I lace the hull then glue the deck to the hull, I can't remove the
: lacing??? Same issue with staples, I'd hate to have a nice clear kayak and
: see staples inside.
: Does Wal-mart sell colored vinyl? at least that would hide staples.
: Thanks Paul and everybody for all the help
: Tim

Colored (unsupported) vinyl from Wal-Mart will not completely cover the
staples as it's more of a translucent color..... at least what I've seen at
the store. Clear vinyl (unsupported) will be difficult to lace and tighten
without tearing.

For clear vinyl (unsupported) it's best to staple the hull at the gunwales,
and apply about a 1" wide area of HH-66 at the gunwales and let it dry
completely. Next apply 1" wide HH-66 along the underside of the deck after
trimming it for stapling to the hull. Let the cement dry completely.

After stapling , heat the HH-66 to reactivate the glue with a heat gun or hair
dryer in this case, and apply hand pressure to insure a seal along the
gunwales. I've seen this done with staples only, no glue ... but I've not
done it that way myself. Remove the deck skin staples, or not, and attach a
thin wood rub strip with wood screws to cover the staples (See attached pic).

The Sea Bee instructions in the manual detail this glue and staple method,
even though it's cloth supported vinyl (PVC). The only difference is that
with clear vinyl, only one coat of vinyl cement(HH-66) is required.

For a non folding wood frame, sewn 8oz / 9 oz. nylon or polyester
coated with latex paint or urethane, would be an excellent alternative. Sewing
isn't all that difficult, and the coatings are less toxic than vinyl cement
and the other chemicals involved.

For a folding skin, woven polyester supported vinyl (PVC) is pretty much it.

Read the "folding kayak skinning instructions" in the manual for much greater
detail than found in the wood frame manual.

Tom