: Colored (unsupported) vinyl from Wal-Mart will not completely cover the
: staples as it's more of a translucent color..... at least what I've seen at
: the store. Clear vinyl (unsupported) will be difficult to lace and tighten
: without tearing.

: For clear vinyl (unsupported) it's best to staple the hull at the gunwales,
: and apply about a 1" wide area of HH-66 at the gunwales and let it dry
: completely. Next apply 1" wide HH-66 along the underside of the deck
: after
: trimming it for stapling to the hull. Let the cement dry completely.

: After stapling , heat the HH-66 to reactivate the glue with a heat gun or
: hair
: dryer in this case, and apply hand pressure to insure a seal along the
: gunwales. I've seen this done with staples only, no glue ... but I've not
: done it that way myself. Remove the deck skin staples, or not, and attach a
: thin wood rub strip with wood screws to cover the staples (See attached pic).

: The Sea Bee instructions in the manual detail this glue and staple method,
: even though it's cloth supported vinyl (PVC). The only difference is that
: with clear vinyl, only one coat of vinyl cement(HH-66) is required.

: For a non folding wood frame, sewn 8oz / 9 oz. nylon or polyester
: coated with latex paint or urethane, would be an excellent alternative.
: Sewing
: isn't all that difficult, and the coatings are less toxic than vinyl cement
: and the other chemicals involved.

: For a folding skin, woven polyester supported vinyl (PVC) is pretty much it.

: Read the "folding kayak skinning instructions" in the manual for
: much greater
: detail than found in the wood frame manual.

: Tom

I've not tried the clear cover (yet) but suspect it can be stapled on the inside of the gunwale and that mostly hides the staples. I do that with the Dacron cover.

I like the rub rail on a SOF, tends to protect the skin one place it's easily damaged, at the extreme outer edge of the boat.

Bill H.