Have you seen the fairing method (not really fairing) where you tape masking tape along a glass edge, then glass over the edge of the tape? When the epoxy gets green (think firm yet still pliable, not just soft and mushy) then go with a sharp utility knife, and cut a score line in the glass just to the outside edge of the tape. Then, lift up the glass edge from the tape, and flex it, and the scored edge should break off. Nice clean line. Then, you could sand this edge to feather it, and epoxy over the edge again to seal up the exposed glass.

This is someone's method, and I found it on this forum. Sorry I can't remember the website, or the builder's name, as I'd like to give proper attribution.

Problem we had, was older MAS (5 or 6 year old) epoxy, and limited time. In short, we'd glass in the early afternoon, then have to come back to our building space (garage on the other side of town) later at night, before the epoxy was properly set up. Afraid to wait over night, though I believe we could have. It's easier to check the condition of epoxy when it's in your own basement or garage. If the build had been in my basement, I would have been down there poking the epoxy every hour, thus driving my girlfriend insane

As a result of us essentially cutting through the glass to get our smooth line, rather than scoring and breaking off as suggested, we've got a dark line running down the deck 1-1.5" inboard of the edge of the deck. (We did not glass the deck of our CLC Chesapeake, just used bias cut glass to cover the deck to hull seam.)

Brian

: Thanks for the info I do have alot lof drips and I will try the cabinet
: scraper idea first. How about feathering the extra cloth on the stems will
: turn white if i sand it to soon? Joe