You can accomplish the same thing as electrolysis without the electricity and concerns about hydrogen gas by simply soaking the rusted parts in a mild citric acid solution. It's non-toxic and safe to work with. Instructions for using it for rust removal are available online and it works beautifully. You can pick up powdered citric acid at shops that cater beer and wine makers. Just mix it in a plastic container large enough to hold your part(s) and you're ready to go in minutes. I found that it worked faster than electrolysis and the spent solution is safe to pour down a drain. Here are a few tips for using it:

1 - Degrease the parts before soaking. Oil residue slows the rust removal process. This is true for electrolysis, too.

2 - Remove heavy rust with a steel or brass brush, sandpaper, Scotchbrite or whatever is appropriate for the object being cleaned. That speeds the cleaning process.

3 - After immersing the part(s) in the acid solution, periodically (every 15-30 minutes) take a look at them and scrub rust off any areas that seem to be lagging behind in the cleaning process. Scotchbrite works fine for this. Although the acid will not hurt your hands, I recommend wearing gloves (latex, vinyl, nitrile or dishwashing gloves), as getting the fine rust off your skin can be a hassle.

4 - When you remove the part(s) from the acid, rinse them thoroughly, but quickly, in COLD water, then IMMEDIATELY coat them with WD-40 or another rust preventative. The acid leaves a highly reactive surface that will begin oxidizing when it contacts air. I have seen cast iron parts take on a yellowish tinge in less than 30 seconds, but it comes off with WD-40 and a little scrubbing. Steel parts will start to turn brown in a few minutes, but again, it comes off easily.

5- After you finish grinding/sanding/polishing parts like plane blades, chip breakers, cap irons and plane soles/sides, a coat of paste wax will help to protect and preserve them. The most commonly used product is Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax, which is available at most hardware stores. Just ask the oldest person in the store for "Butcher's wax"; he'll know what you're talking about. ;-)

6- You can clean brass parts in the acid as well, but they will come out copper-colored. A quick polishing brings back the original color.

I wish I had taken before and after shots of a plane I restored for a friend. It was his father's and it had a lot of sentimental value, but it was a rusty, unusable lump (and had no collector value). After cleaning, flattening the sole, some basic tuning and sharpening the blade, it produced see-through shavings. When I gave it back to him, he was absolutely stunned and couldn't believe that it was the same plane. I thought he was going to cry...

Most of my own planes are 40-80 year old Stanley, Keen Kutter (made by Stanley) and Craftsman (made by Sargent) models. They work every bit as well as new mid-high end planes, but they cost a fraction of the price (typically $10-$30) and I get the satisfaction of bringing them back to life. It can take a fair amount of work, but it's very satisfying.