Sorry, one additional thought inre tent size - unless you want to build a SOF-style room to reduce your vertical heated volume, you'll need to have floor-to-ceiling plastic. Remember, stopping air flow is key so you can't have a 10' ceiling and 9' plastic. You can reduce the size of the perimeter, but since the interior air is going to be hot and the exterior cool the walls will bow inward somewhat due to the heavier air. I used scrap chunks of 2X4 to roll up the excess wall plastic and create a perimeter about 2'-3' around the boat, so that I have room to work. I woudn't go much less, as you're not going to want to get crowded toward wet epoxy in a small tent.

: I ended up making a tent, as I note in my thread just below. I
: tried using two 1500 watt electic heaters pointed at the boat to
: get the temp up from ~50, got it to 62 and put on my sealer
: coat. As I'm using the West System 105/207, it has a temp range
: that starts at 70. At about 62, it took two solid days to stop
: being tacky. After putting up the tent (which wasn't that
: tough), the same two heaters got the temp to 70. At 70, the
: epoxy cures to green in about 5 hours.

: So, temperature is important - take the manufacturer's range
: seriously. In building the tent, it is important to seal every
: gap and eliminate air flow. I used six individual-room plastic
: sheets, a Home Depot roll of 10' would be better as you don't
: need to seal any vertical seams. I stapled the top part of the
: plastic to sections of extra strip, then nailed those to the
: wall with a brad nailer. Once I sucked it up and started actual
: work on the tent, it took about 4 hours of actual work.