I just thought i would share this with any "totally incompetent" handyperson who might be wanting to build their own kayak.!

Having finished the Merganser (but not launched it), I thought I might share some of my thoughts, trial and tribulations about its construction.

Firstly you should know that i am no handyman/tradesman whatsoever. My woodwork teacher wrote some 60 years ago "inclined to sacrifice speed for accuracy" He was pretty well right! But that is me and i live with it.

1. The Bunnings Japanese draw saw for about $25 is a godsend. I now much prefer it over a jig saw.
2. The block plane (a very good one) did not work for me when it came to making an angle to fit the panels tightly. I used a hand sander with 60 grit, I did even try a belt sander on long runs and even that worked better than the block plane.
3. Other than above the belt sander is the enemy of kayak making, poor control, poor vision of what is happening and gouges parts of the wood when you are "not looking" I would say.... do not use it, my use of it caused more problems than it was worth.
4. A random orbital sander is the greatest of the sanding tools to have. Just practice with it first to see how best to use the angles it offers etc
5 I did not learn the technique for stitching the hull to the deck until too late. It is easy when you know how! (well sort of easy) it is only the stitches deep down in the bow or stern that are difficult. Just push the panels in while you stitch it.
6 I used cling wrap and it is a great product. I used duct tape over the hatches and cockpit. (keep access to them)
7. Both my friend and i had difficulty fitting the deck to the hull over the two bulk heads. This seemed to be due to the wrong angles when glued up in the pre deck to hull fixing process. I would ( I think) cut a pattern from the top of the bulkhead, and make a "template" from it for the deck.
8.This issue of "bloom" re epoxy. I do not think I experienced it until the very last coat on the hull but i chose to accept at every stage that i had it it and washed and scoured it before the next epoxy coat.
9. This is where my problems start.... the coloring/finishing process......
a. Clean up every surface to its best possible condition before you begin to coat it. This includes any mess on the ply from the initial gluing of the panels. Even though i used a dark solid colour, they came through!!!!
b. I had never ever epoxied/fiber glassed anything in my life so I learnt the hard way. Drips, and runs. Look for them everywhere at all times. They happen like magic and need to be cleaned up immediately. Whatever part of you boat is underneath, get down and look at it, even until it appears to have "dried out" a bit. If you can totally clean up the drips/runs... do it...they will never leave you.
c. Get a decent squeegee. It was not until the 11th hour i made a squeegee that really worked well.
d. Applying with a roller and squeegeeing out the "bubbles" works. I did it very frequently if not immediately after the application. Mostly i used the squeegee as both the applicator and and squeegee.
10 I am using a "through deck" method of deck line affixing. ie they come from underneath the deck. If you are using this approach, then you need to cut the holes in the deck at the extreme stern bow if you want deck lines/bungee holding in those areas.
11. The instructions said use copper wire about 2 to 3 inches for stitches. Believe me 3 inches is the smallest i would use, 2 inches works but is very fiddly. For the deck to hull fixing I would use 4 inches in length!

I need to tell you that I had "builders block" when it came to constructing the deck. I could not get my head around "spot welding" the panels. It is easy and works well.

Like Owen, I have not publishing a picture diary (I did not take any!) as there are so many "Stitch and Glue" pages out there on the net.

I will take pictures of the launch etc, but my mate will be away.

And another part of my report follows.

Merganser 17 W

Other than a few minutes of work I have finished the Kayak and will be test launching it on Sunday. The only thing I am disappointed with is that I did a very poor colour job on it. It is Royal Blue and though not noticeable from any reasonable distance the the drips and runs from careless earlier coats/mistakes are evident. Some dust too (Inevitable in a multi use shed that I built it in) :(

It was a stitch and glue construction and all the panels fitted well. I have learnt a huge amount during the process and "need" to build another to put my new learning into practice!!!

It weighed in at 16.9 Kgs today with seat in it and all the deck rigging. It is 5.2 meters long (17.5feet) 58.5 cm wide (23 inches) Made of 3mm ply, epoxy and a fiber glass. 4 oz for the hull and 3 oz for the deck. No rudder or skeg. Designed to work without them, maybe I will feel the need to add something. Built for fun and comfort (I will let you know if that is correct!)

Until I get my paddling position set up I have not constructed foot rests or knee supports, I am using a foam block that I can cut and shape etc whilst I am experimenting. I might well stay with that, as the one I had lent to me used foam as foot rests and it worked well. If I chose not to go with the foam I think I will splash out and get commercial foot rests. I am expecting that the final bill for the parts will come in at about $300.

I plan to use it and add or modify bits as I see the need for anything that I can do to it.

I want to get a spray skirt for it in the next week or so, if you have any advice as to where I should go to get one (or if you have made your own!) please let me know. I am quite price conscious (skinflint might be better!)

Yours, with blue finger tips ! 1

Brian