: Exactly what product are you using? Are you sure it's tung oil and
: not raw linseed oil? If it's the latter, it can take weeks or
: even months to cure.

: Tung oil does not cure really hard (like varnish) and it may have a
: slight "waxy" feel to it for a while, but it shouldn't
: be wet or sticky.

: BTW, there's really no point in thinning tung oil (it doesn't need
: it), though it shouldn't affect the curing time if you use
: turpentine or mineral spirits.

I'm using pure tung oil, chestnut brand. The thinning is what's stated on the can for the first couple of coats to aid penetration.

I coated a maple table top a while back, and a couple of days later i applied shellac over it and delivered it. Suprised was i when i got a call with the message the top had developed a kind of surface with spots (3d like). When i got it back i removed the shellac, sanded it and after about 10 to 15 minutes the oil came back up. Sand again, wait a while and same thing. Sanded some more, sealed it as quick as i could with shellac again, several layers. Then put it under a lamp, to heat everything up to see if the oil would pop up again and to my relief the top stayed nice and clean.

I'm very wairy of using this oil, that's why i posted the question. I'm thinking of keeping the skin of my first SOF translucent, and would want the oil to bleed into the cloth.