: I'm using pure tung oil, chestnut brand. The thinning is what's
: stated on the can for the first couple of coats to aid
: penetration.

: I coated a maple table top a while back, and a couple of days later
: i applied shellac over it and delivered it. Suprised was i when
: i got a call with the message the top had developed a kind of
: surface with spots (3d like). When i got it back i removed the
: shellac, sanded it and after about 10 to 15 minutes the oil came
: back up. Sand again, wait a while and same thing. Sanded some
: more, sealed it as quick as i could with shellac again, several
: layers. Then put it under a lamp, to heat everything up to see
: if the oil would pop up again and to my relief the top stayed
: nice and clean.

: I'm very wairy of using this oil, that's why i posted the question.
: I'm thinking of keeping the skin of my first SOF translucent,
: and would want the oil to bleed into the cloth.

Hi George,
As Brian said, both linseed and tung oils are wiped on and excess wiped off. Linseed cures to handlable in a few days in my experience, no oil stains on the canvas. Tung oil cures a bit faster than linseed oil. Not a lot of either is needed as the oil tends to sit in the outer layer of the timber.

Tung oil may not interfere with oil based varnishes but it may make patches that look a different shade to the rest of the skin. Not too sure on that point, I haven't used tung oil much.

One odd question. Is the kayak for fresh water use, salt water and fresh water use or salt water only?
If fresh water use is expected, use tung oil. If only salt water, linseed works fine. Apparently, linseed oil can be mold food if used in fresh water, tung oil seemingly not.

Mike Savage
South West Cork