: I'm using pure tung oil, chestnut brand. The thinning is what's
: stated on the can for the first couple of coats to aid
: penetration.

In my experience, thinning really doesn't do much, if anything.

: I coated a maple table top a while back, and a couple of days later
: i applied shellac over it and delivered it. Suprised was i when
: i got a call with the message the top had developed a kind of
: surface with spots (3d like). When i got it back i removed the
: shellac, sanded it and after about 10 to 15 minutes the oil came
: back up. Sand again, wait a while and same thing. Sanded some
: more, sealed it as quick as i could with shellac again, several
: layers. Then put it under a lamp, to heat everything up to see
: if the oil would pop up again and to my relief the top stayed
: nice and clean.

Covering an oil finish with another finish before the oil is fully cured is a bad idea. Oils don't "dry", they cure through a polymerization process that requires oxygen from the air. If you cover the oil with shellac, you seal it off from the oxygen it needs to cure and you end up with a mess. That said, the oil you're using seems to have some problems that I've never heard of or experienced with tung oil. What you should find is that if you wipe it onto a piece of wood and wipe off the excess a few minutes later, it should cure within ~24 hours at 70 degrees F or higher. At that point you can apply another coat, if necessary. That's the finishing method I used for my SOF frames and I've never had any problems with it bleeding into the skin fabric.

: I'm very wairy of using this oil, that's why i posted the question.
: I'm thinking of keeping the skin of my first SOF translucent,
: and would want the oil to bleed into the cloth.

Something's wrong with the oil you've got. I wouldn't use it either.