Boat Building Forum

Find advice on all aspects of building your own kayak, canoe or any lightweight boats

Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
By:Bill Hamm
Date: 6/2/2010, 9:41 am
In Response To: Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago (Paul G. Jacobson)

: For just one boat a surface planer is more expensive than the boat.
: Overkill? Way over!

: There are cheaper alternatives: For no cost try cutting each strip
: a bit over. Then reset the saw to cut them down to final size.
: After the first cut the strips will be pretty close in size.
: Featherboards will hold them so the second cut can make a
: precise trim. Or, replace the saw blade with a sanding disk.

: I 'rip and flip' 1x8 and 1x6 boards to get long lengths. Ripped in
: half the 1x8 gives me two pieces about 3 5/8s wide. I flip one
: of the halves and overlap what was the top of the original
: board. 18 to 24 inch overlap is fine. A diagonal cut through the
: stacked boards gives a perfect match for a simple scarf joint.
: Once the glue has set rip your strips from the new board. Joints
: will be nearly invisible as the grain and color are from the
: same end of the original board. 10 foot boards give 18 foot
: strips. 12 footers give 22 foot strips.

: It is really difficult to work with milling full-length strips.
: They are flimsy and the more wood you take off the flimsier they
: get. You need a few to get started, but after that you'll do
: fine with 8 or 10 foot strips.

: If you already have a router and table or a shaper, then get a set
: of bead and cove cutters with a fairly large radius. Otherwise
: skip the bead and cove edges a n leave the strip edges alone
: until you are ready to install them. Then use a sharp hand plane
: to put a slight bevel on the edges of the strips.

: Your can put a thin kerf blade meant for a 7 1/4" circular saw
: on your tablesaw. They are thinner and cut fast but only
: suitable for working with 1x stock. You"l need a larger
: diameter blade to work with 2x4 or 4x4 stock.

: Hope this helps

: PGJ

I actually really like using a thickness planer when doing a stripper. Using one means you don't have to be quite so careful when ripping strips to get them all perfectly the same thickness, they can all be run thru the planer after cutting to get them exactly the same.

Still it's pretty expensive if you'll only use it once. It's though a handy tool that you'll likely find other uses for.

Bill H.

Messages In This Thread

Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Kimmer Olesak -- 5/30/2010, 2:18 am
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Bill Hamm -- 6/1/2010, 10:28 am
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Stephen Troy -- 6/1/2010, 2:22 am
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Kimmer Olesak -- 6/1/2010, 6:37 am
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Paul G. Jacobson -- 6/2/2010, 3:36 am
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Bill Hamm -- 6/2/2010, 9:41 am
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Kimmer Olesak -- 6/2/2010, 7:51 am
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Bill Hamm -- 6/2/2010, 9:47 am
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
Paul G. Jacobson -- 5/30/2010, 1:51 pm
Re: Strip: Lumber to mill Strips in Chicago
jhat -- 5/30/2010, 7:24 am