: There are a few glues that are suitable: resorcinal, Titebonds
: 2&3 and PL Polyurethane Construction Adhesive being ones
: that I have used successfully. However, these glues need close
: fits and good clamping pressure, and are not gap filling. The PL
: advertises that it fills up to 3/8" gaps, but I've read
: some counter arguments on the WoodenBoat forum.
: If your joinery is vaguely sloppy, and/or your frames aren't
: beveled for your stringers accurately, then you should use a gap
: filling glue - and thickened epoxy is definitely the best for
: this, with the PL Premium CA (not their "Gorilla Glue"
: style glue - this stuff comes in a tube) coming in a distant
: 2nd. The others should really not be used if your joints aren't
: good and tight.
: A word about the polyurethane glues, such as Gorilla Glue . . .
: they aren't getting good reviews for marine use, and they, also,
: require close fits and good clamping - they are definitely not
: gap filling, even though they foam up and that foam fills gaps
: (foam is mostly air . . . .).
: There are many glue threads on the aforementioned forum, with
: various anecdotal and scientific observations and opinions.

: Pegging and gluing works just fine, though it is only very slightly
: less tedious than lashing. Screwing and gluing saves a few
: steps.

: Good luck!
: Dave Gentry

In Fine Woodworking's glue test Polyurethane glues actually fared the worst, and developed no strength unless the joints were absolutely perfect. TB III was unaffected by all but the most gaping joints. Consider also that the skin will help hold the pegs in as well.

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