...

: SO... I've been mulling it for a while. And I have Bryan N's book
: on carving a GP. Because this is my first try - I'd like to pull
: this off as cheaply as possible. So - what wood could I get for
: this?

: And, what's the bare minimum tools-wise to be able to do this
: realistically? My dad has a band saw that I can cut the blank
: down with. However, I don't own a block plane or spokeshave or
: draw knife (though, the spokeshave & draw knives scare me
: just looking at them).

: Thoughts? Opinions? Witty commentary (yeah- I know, RTFM)?

: -Doug

Hi Doug,
You pose some interesting questions, (ones that get even more interesting discussed at great length over a case of your favorite libation), so here's my $0.02.

The question of how can you make a paddle (or whatever) with the absolute minimum of tools. The real answer lies in "what are your skills and how much patience do you have?" You can make the whole paddle, for example, with only a hatchet or a knife, although I'm sure that's not what you have in mind.

Since you have the bandsaw, I'd recommend a medium grade spokeshave as the favoured tool. Next consider a plane, and then perhaps the drawknife. Drawknives take a lot more practice to use efficiently however. After roughing out the paddle, you can, within a couple of hours or so, pretty much finish the paddle with just the spokeshave. I got a Stanley spokeshave, probably on a bit of a sale at a tool store for about $26 canadian. If you're buying one, get one with the two vertical adjusting screws. Spokeshaves can be had cheaper, but the ones without the screw depth adjustment are a pain and you will likely give up on the tool in short order. I didn't have any luck using one until I got the Stanley. There are better ones of course, the Lee Valley/Veritas tools are to drool over (if you like that sort of thing) but it's not necessary to spend that kind of money for decent function.

The other tools like a decent plane, sanders etc will make the work go faster, but you can do without.

The real key to effectiveness with any edged tool however is having it sharp, sharp enough to shave some hair off your arm (or other appendage of your choice). A number of ways to get it that way, one of my favorites, and relatively cheap, is with a small medium diamond hone (about $15-$20) and then a strop made from a piece of old leather belt glued to a small board (free or a couple of bucks at a thrift shop) loaded with polishing compound (about $10 for a stick - enough to last you a number of decades of hand sharpening). There are many other ways of sharpening, some cheap, some expensive - consult the googoracle. Once your tools are sharp, they are a joy, and quite effective, (perhaps addictive...)

As to wood, almost any species will do, though lightness is good. The SPF 2x4 is a good suggestion, try to find one that is reasonably light (the S or the F - the F is not Douglas-fir, but a true fir species, often known as "balsam"). It is important to get straight grain, or you risk a much higher chance of breakage. I have actually had better luck finding parts of larger sizes of lumber, eg 2x6 that are clear of knots and have straight grain than finding a perfect 2x4. The last time I was in the "Home Despot" I found a couple of 8 ft wrc 2x6s, 2/3 of the width clear with pretty straight grain for about $13 each. Don't find that every time, but sometimes if I keep my eyes open.

One consideration, although maybe not on some folks' tool list is a way to keep the paddle clamped while you work on it. I use a bench of some sort and a C or F clamp. A helper may suffice.

A final thought is to look at borrowing tools, through friends, clubs, schools (your kid's teachers...) etc, if buying is an obstacle, or if you're just not sure what you will like using.

Happy building.... :-)

Mark.