: I'm getting ready to build a SOF using Chris Cunningham's book.
: Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't figure out why, if the
: keelson, chines, and gunwales are to have an actual dimension of
: 3/4", he suggests resawing them from 2x lumber. Why not
: just use 1x nominal lumber?

There really isn't any good reason not to use nominal 1x lumber, especially since most people don't have access to rough-cut 2x lumber or the means to re-saw it cleanly enough to ensure even bending of the resulting parts. IMO, this is one area where Cunningham's and Morris' method create an unnecessary stumbling block and extra complication for new builders. I've found that a better method is to find a wide 1x board with symmetric grain and saw it down the center of the grain, producing essentially mirror-image gunwale boards. These are the only two pieces where symmetry is important, so the rest of the board can be cut into whatever dimensions are necessary for the keel, stringers, etc.

: Also, is there any harm in building a slightly more relaxed fit to
: the kayak? I'm a Greenland paddler, with an acceptable basic
: roll. My main boat is a woodstrip Outer Island, 18' by 21".
: I am concerned that a much lower deck/tighter fit will be
: uncomfortable (limited ability to bend knees) and anxiety
: producing (can I get out before I drown). Of course the SOF
: should be fairly low volume, and not a tub, but I'm leery of
: creating a super-tight, hard-to-enter, hard-to-wet-exit boat. At
: my skill level, I'd likely be nervous about paddling it alone. I
: figure its better to 'fess up before I build.

You don't need to fit the boat so tightly that it's hard to enter and exit. The technique is different in that you have to sit on the aft deck and slide in, but that's easy to learn. Although some people prefer a boat that they have to wiggle into like a pair of tight jeans, you don't need to go to that extreme. However, if you make the boat too big - particularly if you make the foredeck too high - you lose much of the advantage of the traditional fit, so I would recommend sticking with the method in the book and fitting the masik such that you can slide in with relative ease (no barking your shins or busting your kneecaps), but go no higher than that.