One thing to keep in mind is that the 'left side' router will be mounted above the router table-- so that the cutting bit is going in the right direction.

Sounds like you've got a good basic idea of one 'stationary' router with the other more 'adjustable'
(of course they'd both be adjustable, but one more so than the other.
As with my table set up, your first router will be adjusted for width of strip with the adjustable feather board. For the second router, the router would need to move in and out.

On my table rather than trying to make parallel grooves, instead I use pivoting. My 'fence' is a piece of baltic birch ply, with a 1-3/4" hole (bit is about 1-3/8" diameter). To adjust the depth of cut I pivot this fence on a drywall screw near the edge of the infeed side, and anchor it down with a second screw near the edge of the outfeed side of the table. (I always found commercial router table fences moving like table saw fences to be unnecessary)

Dust and chip collection are important because it keeps the area around the router cutting clean. A build up of saw dust here can cause a lot of problems. Without this aligning is impossible.

A rare but possible problem is to watch for splintering. I once experienced a pine splinter tearing off, deflecting into the motor of my trusty 1/4" Porter Cable router. Killed the motor.

Of course as you seem to be gearing up for production, Nick and some of the guys who do this for a living probably have it figured out best.