: That looks just like the one I use. Works great. Something I saw in
: a recent edition of "Fine Woodworking" (I think that
: was the one) was a guy built a simple stone holder with wood
: blocks to hold the stone (for those using stones, but you could
: use it to hold granite or glass for the scary sharp method).
: What I like, however, that he did was to make wood blocks for
: each blade where he could lay the blade on the board with the
: sharp end touching the wood block, and then install the
: sharpening guide and it would be set up for a given angle. Each
: wood block was set in a pre-determined spot to give the blade
: length from teh sharpening jig that would create a certain
: bevel. He labeled them for different bevels.

: Let me say it a different way that might make better sense- take
: the blade, cuck it in the sharpening jig, and once you get it
: set for just the right bevel, lay it across a piece of wood with
: the jig touching the wood. Mark where the blade ends and then
: glue a stop-block so that next time you sharpen a blade at that
: angle you just set it against the stop block, install the
: sharpening jig, and it's automatically set for that angle every
: time.

Malcom, this is the same article I read and this is how I sharpen, different jigs for different sizes. The problem was making a jig small enough for this thumb plane I have - I ran out of room for screws:(
Brian, I realize the jig shortcomings with the really short blades but I am using emery paper on 3/8" thick glass. By moving the jig rollers off the glass and on to the table I can adjust the angle to whatever I want just by adding shim materials under the rollers. Instead of changing the angle by changing blade length I will change the angle by raising/lowering roller height - - at least that is my plan. The jig is cheap so it is a small investment to see if it will work. I will post a report on the outcome.
Thanks again gentlemen
Randy