: Hi Mark,

: Ok, basic method: I use West 105/207 resin, that system works for
: this method, I've not tested it with any other, it has to be
: fairly flexible and remain that way, not all resin systems are.

: I cover the frame with heat shrink non-certified aircraft Dacron, I
: get it from Aircraft Spruce, I'm sure other aircraft suppliers
: will have it too and certified material will work also but is
: very expensive. I staple the cloth to the frame, covering the
: hull and deck separately. Hammer in the staples so they are
: flush with the wood. I then glue the lap (deck over the hull)
: with contact cement. Once the cement is cured, overnight, any
: wrinkles can be removed with a household clothes iron. I use the
: iron too for shrinking the fabric, start at the lowest
: temperature that causes some shrinking of the cloth then
: gradually go hotter. If you start at the max. setting and it
: won't all get tight you'll have to live with the wrinkles, going
: a little at a time insures you can get the fabric drum tight.

: Btw, I don't cut out the opening for the cockpit (or any hatches)
: until I'm done with the whole cover. Just as easy to cut them
: out later and keeps wrinkles at bay not having any openings,
: once it's glassed the fabric is stable and wrinkles are no
: longer a problem.

: Next brush on as thin a coating of epoxy as you can get, but brush
: the resin into the weave of the cloth, this seals the cloth and
: provides a stiff surface to apply the glass. Once set, apply the
: glass just like you'd do on any other boat. I do the hull and
: deck separately on the glass too.

: Any questions ask here or Email me.

: Bill H.

Oh yeah, I normally use the mid weight Dacron, the heavy stuff is fine too, the lighter material works but it's no fun to glass.

I've used a single skin of glass, though I've doubled the stems and have used from 3.2 ounce which is fairly fragile but light and finishes easily to 6 ounce which is bulletproof, but more difficult to finish.

Bill H.