John,

I am not a GP expert, but I have made a lot of wooden projects using both large and small wood lamination's. Here are a couple of suggestions that you may find helpful:

When cutting larger stock down to size (thickness) on a table saw, I find that is is helpful to make your first cut slightly oversize, say by 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch. Then adjust your fence to the desired final dimension and run the stock through again. (Sometimes I run it through again on both sides.) When you are starting with thick stock and your a taking a larger amount off of the wood, the blade may deflect a slight amount, the stock might move, or the feed rate may not be smooth enough and you can get a less than desirable cut. When you make a second "polishing" cut and you are only removing a thin shaving of wood (less than the saw kerf), you can usually get a very smooth cut, which makes a good glue joint.

Several people responded to your question by saying that you need "high clamping pressure". This is generally a myth. Most people who use high clamping pressure are actually trying to bend the wood to compensate for a poorly fitting joint, and the end result will not be a good solid joint. When your pieces fit together properly, without significant gaps only moderate clamping pressure is required. Long grain glue-ups (like those used to make a GP paddle, see Dave's example pictures) are very strong and do not need a large amount of clamping pressure as long as the pieces fit together well. As discussed by others there are many ways to achieve a good fitting joint (table saw, skill saw, plane, spokeshave, sander, etc.).

Oh and one more thing, consider using cauls with your clamps. Cauls will spread the clamping pressure out more evenly and prevent your clamps from damaging the surface of your lamination.

Greg