I've tried a skeg close to the center (closer to the rear of the cockpit than the end of the stern) and it worked exactly as in the referenced video - I could easily zig-zag the kayak with edging, something that was not possible without the skeg. Tracking was also improved. Mine was a simple piece of plastic glued with marine goop semi-permanently. That was on a short kayak that was maneuverable to begin with and with a lose stern and relatively planted bow.

I have a similar setup on my current SOF and the effect is similar though not quite as pronounced as I have the skeg a little farther back and the kayak is longer and not nearly as maneuverable by design as the first one.

Got to try it on my plastic WS Zephyr - will tape a plastic piece somewhere between the current skeg and the seat to see if the effect is similar there or not...

The downside would be (my thinking, have not experimented) is that a skeg like that would not combat weathercocking nearly as effectively as when it is in the rear of the stern. That is, without edging.

Curious to learn more about the concept if you can share...

: Hi Kudzu,

: It is well beyond the testing stages. Check this video showing
: control by edging with skeg down in the first part and up in the
: second part.
: http://vimeo.com/11296090
: Sterling Donalson fits all of his kayaks with a central skeg and
: has coined the term "Skeel". More details here.
: http://www.sterlingskayak.com/

: Don Goss and a couple of others on this board are also using
: central skegs. It doesn't take much skeg in this location to
: sweeten the ride. Half or one inch is often enough.

: Let me know if you would like more detail or videos.

: Best,

: Reg

: Full disclosure, I build the skeg units for Sterlings kayaks and
: though I am not on the payroll I do work closely with him on
: developing new ideas and kayak designs. Currently cleaning up
: one of my concept kayaks (Reflection) as a plug to have the mold
: made.