: I asked this question in the “Strip: hand bevel vs b&c -
: opinions” thread, but rather than hijack that thread further I
: have started a new thread for this topic.

: Modern strippers are glassed for cross-grain strength. Many years
: ago the strips were edge-nailed and/or tacked or rivetted to
: ribs. I prefer not to glass my boats for various reasons that
: are not the issue here, but I still want to take advantage of
: modern methods and materials. I suppose a glass-free stripper
: could be made of ply, but that might be difficult and probably
: heavy.

: Has anyone tried gluing steamed or laminated ribs to the inside of
: the stripped hull to provide cross-grain strength? I have
: supplies of very flexible wood strips that I think could be
: inserted inside the boat after the strip build is completed.
: That would give it a fairly traditional look without the , time,
: work and weight of the traditional methods.

: I have found that 3 mm ply with an internal cross-grain element of
: around 1 mm makes an adequate hard-chine canoe without glassing.
: This suggests the rib thickness should average 1 mm. 3 mm thick
: ribs would easily bend around the inside of the hull after
: stripping, and 1" wide ribs every 3" would, I think,
: look attractive.

: Anyone see any snags?

On the old strippers the hull stayed in the mold till all the strips were nailed to the ribs.
On modern strippers the hull stays on the mold till the exterior glass goes on.
In your method it looks like you would have to take the hull off the mold without anything but glue holding the whole works together in order to get access to the inside.