: Actually two passes. One to cut the strip and a 2nd to bevel the
: edge. You would be doubling the angle if you cut the bevel on
: both sides. I cut one edge at 7 degrees and that seemed to have
: worked well for me. As Rob said, put a pencil mark because it's
: hard to see the bevel. I stripped my front deck without any hand
: plane work with a 7 degree bevel. and on the hull, it worked a
: lot but not all the time so sometimes I had to do some hand
: planing - but none of them were less than 7 degrees. On the back
: deck of the OI it's flat and I always keep some deck strips at
: the 90 degree cut.

: Once the tale saw is set up with feather boards (top and side) you
: can do the bevels in seconds.

Thank you for the description. I actually cut both sides of the strip at 3 degrees. That way I don't have to mark anything to remember where the bevel is. I figure it keeps my inside/outside edges easier to keep flush if using the same bevel on both edges. A square edge mated to a 7 degree bevel means something is overhanging somewhere.
I also have various finished edges on hand, both edges square, both beveled, one beveled, some bead and cove, some bead only some cove only. They all work well in specific locations. I rubber band each type together - works well for me:)