: . . . My current boats all have adjustable foot pegs but
: they are vertical surfaces. Have you ever seen any adjustable
: pegs that are at an angle?
: Thoughts??
I've seen pegs that are just that: round wood pegs. Wrap your foot bones around 'em.
You are building your boat. That leaves you free to install any option you have ever seen on the market, and to invent options which no one else has. If you want fixed-angled or adjustable-angled foot rests, you can start searching the archives for old posts on these subjects, or just send out a shout and wait for people to post pix of their efforts, plans, ideas, or wild dreams.
Tilting pedals are the usual way to operate rudders. If you are looking for an off-the-shelf option, get the gear for mounting a rudder, but don't put on a rudder--just the tilting pedals. Tie off the rudder cables to get whatever angle you want on your pedals. There are plenty of home-built rudder controls, and lots of free or cheap plans for making them. If you ask for advice you might get flooded with responses.
As for raising the deck: The quick and easy way to change the deck height on a strip-built deck is to raise it in the center of the forms in front of the cockpit. Draw the forms, then add a rectangular-block about 8 inches wide and I inch high to the form nearest where your toes will be. freehand some curved lines to blend that block shape into the top line of that form. If the next form in towards the cockpit is higher, then you don't need to raise it as much. Maybe you don't need to raise it at all. Working toward the bow add as much to the form as you need to get a fair line. If the rise appears too abrupt you can raise the top of an additional form.
If you have ever seen an airscoop tunnel on the hood of a sportscars you get a picture of what you'll have: a higher tunnel for your toes.
Thsi way you leave the sheerline alone, and make an insignificant change in total volume of the kayak. The faired in curves reduce the effect of wind on making that raised area act like a sail--which could affect handling.
If I read your original post correctly you were going to raise the height of the deck across the entire form for 3 or 4 forms, and then go back to the design. That would make the sheer line (or gunwale line) rise over your feet and fall back tot he plan. While the effect might be slight, it could be a real bear to try and strip that, as the gunwale or sheer strips are the first to go on--and it really is nice if they are straight, because everything else keys on them. If you get the hull stripped without too much torture, you then have the prospect of stripping the deck's sheerline to match. It becomes much more work than you probably want to deal with.
Either raise the sheer line evenly on all forms, as Bill suggests -- that will give you a higher volume boat and a bit more freeboard-- or just raise the centers of as many forms as it takes to accomdate your feet.
Do you normally paddle with shoes, booties, sandals, etc.? If so make sure you allow room for them or your efforts will be for nought.
Just some thoughts.
PGJ
Messages In This Thread
- Strip: Raised deck Guillemot
Bob Beaullieu -- 12/28/2010, 8:29 am- Re: Strip: Raised deck Guillemot
Les Cheeseman -- 12/29/2010, 9:24 am- Re: Strip: Raised deck Guillemot
Bob Beaullieu -- 12/29/2010, 9:54 am
- Re: Strip: Raised deck Guillemot
Bill Hamm -- 12/28/2010, 1:46 pm- Re: Strip: Raised deck Guillemot
Bob Beaullieu -- 12/28/2010, 2:29 pm- Re: Strip: Raised deck Guillemot
Bill Hamm -- 12/28/2010, 6:03 pm- Raised deck and foot pegs
Paul G. Jacobson -- 12/28/2010, 3:30 pm - Raised deck and foot pegs
- Re: Strip: Raised deck Guillemot
- Re: Strip: Raised deck Guillemot
- Re: Strip: Raised deck Guillemot