: How many boats am I going to build? What kinda question is that?
: Why, all of 'em, of course!

: I rather like the look of the highly modified steamiron (where's
: the handle?), but with a flatbased plate attached, is there a
: tendency to indent the strip edge as you bend it? I would
: imagine a curved base would address that - not sure I can get
: that one done.

: Are most using the variable temp heatguns, or the 'two-fers'? 1200
: watt or 1500 watt? I haven't played with one, noticed in the
: reviews some folk felt that, even with identical specs, some
: were much more effective than others - but they weren't bending
: wood strips, instead using the heatguns for more mundane
: projects. It strikes me that if it is possible to scorch the
: wood a bit, I wouldn't have to worry about ebonizing it
: later.... one less step.

: Thanks.

I found that I could not get the handle off in order to figure out how not bugger up the electrics while drilling and tapping the base of the iron, so I took the handle off in rather small pieces. Hence it has departed to the dump with the strip shavings. :) If you can get the handle off, you can figure out where to drill and tap, then put the handle back on. Having the handle on will allow portable use, i.e. one hand for the strip and the other holding the iron. With the heater anchored, the strip can be handled with two hands which I found to be an advantage.

If you build one of these, it is a good idea to round the aluminum plates so as to avoid denting the cedar. The plates in my pictures are not rounded enough, I will modify them before starting my deck. On the other hand, the hull looks great in spite of the heater not being rounded enough. If you look at the photos, you will see that there are two chunks of aluminum added (use aluminum, not steel, it conducts heat better, and for the same reason, use aluminum or copper shimming if you need any). The "central" piece should be rounded vertically, i.e. so that a strip pressed down vertically on its edge will press against a curved surface. This will facilitate bending strips from edge to edge. Not much curve is needed, think of the most severe bend you are likely to need, and add a bit. The outside piece of aluminum should have its corners well rounded so that a strip being bent face wise away from the iron base is not bent over sharp edges at the edge of the bending slot.

This rig works well, and used steam irons can be had for a few bucks from the local junk store. Aluminum scraps can be had for cheap or free from a local metal fabrication shop.

When I am stripping, I just leave it set to maximum heat, and the thermostat keeps it ready to go. As soon as I put in a wet strip, the thermostat kicks on the power to keep the thing hot while I am bending. Re. the issue of whether to wet or not, I have tried both, and wetting seems to work better for me. It prevents scorching, and the steam generated seems to penetrate the wood and speed up the relaxation of the strip. However, if you do not want to bother with water, the iron will work without it.

Have fun,

Best regards,

Allan Edie