Hey Paul, didn't mean to make you type your fingers off... but as usual I learned something, I never had a clue about polymerized proteins before. Yeah, I cut my SOF teeth on canvas and latex paint. Works great for a season until it's overcome by the elements in NC -- obviously works better in different climes. Notice I said easier to obtain alternatives. Zar works pretty well but it is not ubiquitous around these parts, we have several hardware stores, and even places dedicated to wooden patio furniture and the like. I had to get my Zar 2 hours away, and I got the last 6 cans the art/craft store had. They were pretty old, and he wasn't getting anymore. So. Hence my interest in polyester and plain old paint. Means to an end.

Goop works pretty dang well though with only one goopified kayak under my belt I have yet to master the application, but even my noob skillz are close enough for government work. And the goop is not exactly difficult to get since I order nylon anyhow. But it sure would be nice if there were a $15 can of whatchacallit that would work as well. Sigh. But that is why I perk up and pay attention when people start talking about laying on PL adhesive and Geocel.

Silicone... I'm really interested in this here "SealSkin2010" stuff that they are using in Greenland: http://greenlandkayaks.gl/. I reckon they are fully manufacturing their own textile there, laminating layers and all sorts of other magical processes I am in the dark about. And how is a Feathercraft skin made? You strippers out there do such a nice job, it is time to elevate the finish of the lowly homegrown SOF, IMHO. But on the other hand, there's something to be said for just shutting up and spreading the goop, then bashing the hell out of the thing.

I'm really interested in the things Dan Caouette (sp?) and Bill Hamm are doing, laminating the fabrics together with Vectran or Dacron and fiberglass. I want to try some of that, but feel I might not have gleaned all the requisite background knowledge to warrant the tuition for those lessons yet.

And yeah, I'd enjoyed a couple sips last night before I got freaked out by the Geocel MSDS. I reckon most of these paints and goops and epoxies and dopes and whatnot are hazardous to some degree or other. Except maybe gelatin? I was not suggesting that Tim was recklessly endangering the lives and liberty of himself and adjacent citizenry. Maybe I should be quiet and listen more. Out of all these alternatives, once I build one or two more SOF and figure out what I really like and not, I am pretty apt to spring for the dacron and glass and give Bill's way a shot. I've done glass, so that's not much of a mystery. I don't suppose there'd be nearly as much sanding as with the wooden boats I've sworn off of for the time being. I'd like to hear more, Bill, about the actual lamination process, if you please... I am envisioning the flexible surface of the dacron giving beneath the spreader, and glass separating or floating in the resin? Are there special issues to avoid or overcome? I can't recall... are you using 105/207 or the new g-flex stuff? I haven't messed with epoxy in a long time other than small gluing applications.

I sincerely appreciate the resource of this board. It's all you folks who make it so great.

Here's a pic of my January 2011 build, a take on the 1931 Disko Bay, inspired by Dave Gentry's build last year which you've likely seen. Here again, I used the MDO signboard for the Yost-style forms, except I sent the sign shop a PDF of the form drawings I created from Harvey's survey and had them cut on the shopbot just to get a boost on the build. This one is Zar plus artist oils. If anyone would like a copy of the form drawings I made, happy to share. BTW, for those inclined to follow suit, be aware that the survey printed in KOG is "squished" vertically a little bit. Error in pre-press. Harvey was kind to share the un-squished scan with me once I discovered the discrepancies and inquired.

Anyhow. Now I've typed my fingers off... later ya'll. : )