: Further on the chine log theme: I have built several canoes and
: boats using chine logs. My designs either have straight sided
: plank developments that are easy to relate to hull shape, or I
: use FreeShip to develop plank shapes.

: When the plank edges are not too curved, I glue thin (2 x ply
: thickness) chine logs directly to the sheer planks while they
: are flat. This makes the planks stiffer and easier to handle
: with less chance of breakage. Once they are set up over a mold,
: I plane the edges of the logs and ply ready for the bottom, for
: a 3-plank boat.

: For a 5-plank boat, I also glue chine logs to the edges of the
: bottom plank and set it up on the mold together with the sheer
: planks. Once the chine logs are planed ready for the bilge
: planks, I epoxy those and tack them in place with temporary
: staples. I only use epoxy for the final joints, as the
: plank-to-chine log joints that are made flat fit perfectly so
: they don't require a gap-filling adhesive.

I've rebuilt a couple plywood runabouts, you can get bends to the ply in the forward part of the boat you'd not think possible, certain not a bend you'd ever get with S&G, would rip out the wires.

Btw, if anyone ever tries this, you attach the most difficult part to bend first, using the extra length of the plywood overhanging as a lever to help make the bends.

Bill H.