: Hi steve,
: An upto 3 degree bevel through your 1.5¨ is a good idea.Make sure
: they are the same width then one side can be used on the oposite
: side of the kayak.Note you would have to turn that strip from
: bow to stern to get the bevel working in the right
: direction.Same width so you can build your hull/deck
: semetrically and evenly....other that that strip width is not
: critical.Guage or thickness is very critical.Also the edge the
: bevel is on and it´s direction should aslo be noted some how so
: you can avoid the basic errors.It´s hard to tell just by
: looking.cheers.

Strip width can be anything you like, but make it consistent. If you don't, the strip height will vary across a butt joint, and the next strip will leave a gap. If you are splitting a 1 1/2" piece to make two finished strips, you will have to be careful to make sure that both sides of the cut produce exactly the same width strip. This may fussier than you expect. Also, if you use the surface of your original lumber as your finished strip edge, you will be vulnerable to inconsistencies in the precision of your 1 1/2" lumber.

I use 5/8" strips, not 3/4, and this allows me to sequentially rip two strips off the 1 1/2" width rather than splitting the piece in one cut. One further rip, but since all
strips go through the saw exactly the same way, the width is consistent.

However, splitting 1 1/2" x3/16" pieces into two strips is rarely required, because if I have flat sawn 1 1/2" lumber, I resaw it on a bandsaw, put the