: Now that is a really good tip!

: It was interesting reading of all the problems a table saw user can
: have. For the kind of stock we boat builders cut, a table saw
: seems like overkill.

: Being a cheap SOB I use a regular skilsaw with a zero clerance ply
: baseplate and a long (3x saw length) Tee-shaped plywood guide
: that I simply clamp on. The stock I just set down on a table
: with an insulating foam slab top. I can cut longer pieces than I
: could with a table saw because the saw moves instead of the
: wood, the workpiece is supported t all times. it is held between
: saw and table so with a simple stop it can't go anywhere. I'm
: not sure how accurate a table saw can be but I routinely get
: within 0.01". A pair of hooks at the edge of the table
: catches and holds the strips. Thin ply is a snap - I use a small
: worm-drive panel saw and it is easy to cut accurately because I
: am not 8 feet from the start of the cut.

: A buddy of mine copied the idea and sold his table saw. For the big
: stuff he prefers a bandsaw.

: One snag though; I can't angle the blade unless I change the
: baseplate, but then the insert has to be changed on a table saw
: ... and I can put all those pesky little saws away when I need
: more floorspace. It's not a religious thing, but here endeth the
: lesson!

Hello,

I tried it this way. It is recommended by Björn Thomasson (http://www.thomassondesign.com/building/building_manual/preparations.aspx) but I had troubles to keep the thinkness of the strips consistent. Here are photo's of my setup. In my not well keeped blog at http: kayak.ddaniels.com I describe my difficulties. Next time I will use a small tablesaw.
Please use the CTR and - key to see the photo in a smaller format or look at my blog (at the start)

Greetings from the Netherlands
Daan Daniels