: My plan was for my son and I to complete 2 kayaks over the winter,
: but we're still not done with the first, so the second might
: have to wait until next winter.

Which models are you working on now, or planning to work on for this first venture? Are any of these SOF models?

: But.....we were also eventually
: planing on building a SOF for my dad and I'm thinking maybe we
: could get that done yet this winter after the first is complete.
: Does anyone have any suggestions on a design for a very
: comfortable (stable) small/calm water SOF design with enough
: displacement for a 250-270 lb paddler?

Is it possible to resize one of your current plans for your dad? If so then you already have the plans, some experience, and possibley some materials you can reuse. It would make the next project go faster and cost less.

If not, then get a copy of George Putz's book "Wood and Canvas Kayak Building". It includes the details of build a "Walrus". The 17" version should be fine. Great size for a large guy; big cockpit for easy entry and room for a livewell, cooler, or tacklebox; and good stability for fishing. Major problem I found with Putz's directions are that they are seemingly based on the method used by aboriginal peoples. He also uses a lot of plywood so that his building forms can rest on the ground or floor (no strongback). I've updated his data and translated it into a simple graph format which you can plot on graph paper. I also shortened the building forms's bases so that you can make them with less material, and work on a workbench, long table, or a couple of 2x4s resting on sawhorses. The info is at: www.floatingboat.com/17walrus.htm

Putz also has a double, which is 18.5 feet long. I've got the recalcualted data for that at: http://www.floatingboat.com/18walrus.htm

There are only 6 building forms, and they are reusable. Copy the lines of the forms and you will have half of the pieces Putz calls 'floorpieces". Once the forms are set up the chines are bent around them.The overhanging chines rest on an end block yo give them the correct shape. Then the keel and bottom-side-chines are connected with floor pieces. The bottom and top side chines are connected with criscrossing strips, and the frame is removed from the building forms. Deck beams are bent or cut to shape and mounted, the cockpit coaming is fitted, a few boards set into the floor, and the boat is skinned. Standard skin is canvas covered with exterior wall paint. Sounds simple, just takes time, and Putz is an amusing author.

If you can get in touch with Mike Hanks you can get his opinion of this design. He built several of them. The original goes back to an article in The Rudder, which is reprinted in Putz's book.

: My dad thought he'd use
: it mostly for just casually cruizing around and fishing some.
: I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Hope this helps

PGJ

pic below is from Amazon's website.