: Towit, I meant to use cherry wood color analine dye to color up the
: sheer panels and coaming on Linda's Solace 16 EX. Problem is
: that I was a little too quick to join the panels and the epoxy
: has soaked very nicely into the wood around the joints.

: Not sure what you can do with the sheer panels. Got a pic of the situation for us to assess?

The coaming, however would be a lovely place to run a a strip of veneer. You can get iron- n edge- anding veneer, unglued veneer strips, or you can make some by ripping 1/4" strips in half. It gives you lots of sawdust--and two very thin strips. You'l have a pretty good radius with a coaming, so you can make 1/16th-inch-thick, or about 1 mm to 1.5 mm thick strips and they'll bend around without problems. Get a nice piece of cedar (or clear birch or poplar--they stain well) about 6 feet long and 2 inches wide, and rip off a 2" wide strip. No fancy setup for the one-off piece.

Fit the piece with gentle bending and overlap the ends an inch or 2. Mark the overlap area, and work it thinner on both ends with a plane or a sander. You want the seam to flow together like a scarf joint. The veneer is so thin you'll taper it in no time.

Stain the veneer first, then wrap it around the coaming and hold it in place with a light coat of epoxy or glue.

You'll put on a lip to cover the top edge of this, so you might not even need such a big piece of veneer.

Nothing has to match the thickness of the coaming, so the exact thickness of the veneer is not critical. Worst case scenario, you send out for lillies. Best case, you get a slightly beefed up, and more durable coaming, with the nice wood grain and stain color you and Linda want.

As for the sheer panel. Can you paint it glossy black and put on a nicely stained round cherry rubrail? The gloss black would be a stunning background for something simple like that. Notch out the underside of the cherry rub rail so water can drain, and it will also serve as tie-down points on for deck lines.

PGJ