: Dave, I have framed up a Sea Rover to build strictly for rolling.
: I've used 1/2" ply and used WRC for all longitudinals. I
: followed Tom Yost's recommendations for the scantlings. It all
: goes together as advertised. All considered, I'm a little
: concerned that there is too much sag and spring in the boat due
: to the lightness of the gunwales, chines and keel, especially
: with the WRC. I saw on Tom's site another design with a rather
: heavy person (not me, I'm only about 155#) and the stern was
: actually completely out of the water and the boat looked like it
: was sagging significantly.
: What was your experience with the Sea Rover along these lines? I
: cannot imagine the skin adding that much longitudinal stability
: in the frame, but then again, this is my first skin-on-frame
: attempt.
: Cheers and happy paddling, Wil.

I've had that problem too using WRC for these boats, with pine it's not an issue. While WRC is very light and looks nice, it's not the strongest wood in the world. I ended up with intermediate frames specially around the cockpit to help support the big span areas. That helps much. Not "real" hard to figure out the dimmensions once the stringers are on the frames, just have to measure each side then lay it out on the plywood. I only do this where the span between the frames is biggest, usually at the cockpit and sometimes between the cockpit and the frame where your feet sit, depends on the boat.

Bill H.