: Another thought for a strong flat work bench.
: All the designs here use 2x4s and 2x6s. 2x6's vertical joists are
: probably overkill for a work surface. 2x6 16" on center
: could probably support 3000+ pounds.
: 2x4s are plenty. You could, it carefully constructed use 1x4
: material.

I have a small bench made from 1x4 with a 3/4" plywood top which I've used for decades. Holds up well. Strangely, the current pricing for lumber places a greater value on 1x stock than on 2x stock. I can get a 2x4 for less cost than a 1x4. That makes it considerably to cheaper to build with 2x4s.

: I think I'd rip some 2x3s or 4's on my table saw (to make 1x3s or
: 1x4s)

Resawing 2x4s into undersized 1x4s is pushing the limits for my tablesaw, and I haven't been happy with the results when I've tried. I just got a few new bandsaw blades, so maybe I'll clean the rust off and fire that up. A 2x4 is 1.5 inches. After cutting it in half each piece will be a little less than 3/4" due to the wood lost to the sawblade. (Kerf width. I'll lose a bit more if I plane the surface smooth, and probably end up with wood which is 5/8". My other option is to resaw the 2x4s so i get one piece a bit thicker than 3/4, and another a bit thicker thatn 1/2", then plane the bigger one down to get a 1x4, and save the thinner piece for another project. If I didn't mind the time and the wear and tear on saw and blades I could make 1x4s for less than I can buy them, and have some 1/2 thick stock for other projects as a byproduct. Last time I actually tried turning 2x4s into 2x2s I ran into problems. The freshly cut 2x4s want to twist and warp on me. If I can't get good 2x2s i can't imagine getting good 1x4s.

:. . . lay down a sheet of medium density fiberboard the size I
: want for the top. Make sure it's flat and level.
: Cut all my 'joists' and blocking, then mix up all the old epoxy
: I've got laying around, add a little filler (or pancake mix) to
: thicken it, then glue it all together.
: A coat of sealer and it will be flat and strong for a hundred
: years.
: for legs I'd just make some really solid saw horses. The only way
: I'd add regular legs is if it was to be in one permanent spot,
: and I wanted storage underneath.

You are building a box-beam-type panel. With a core of 3.5" wood it should be strong enough for anything short of a
Sherman tank. Something that rugged WILL hold a semi, if the joists and blocking are close enough together. It will be heavy, though.

Using saw horses to support your table? Some like to do it, and others find they are constantly tripping on the saw horses. Getting them the correct size is important. You will have 8 legs, but only 2 supported areas--right above the crossbars. You can get better support by using those legs as legs. Or, save on wood and just go with 4 legs. I'm building 20 benches so I can help people working on 10 projects at once. That would call for a stable full of sawhorses. And good sawhorses are space hogs when you want to store them. You can't stack them very high, and they have a wide footprint. They have their uses, but legs are a simpler and cheaper answer to some questions.

There was a recent magazine article on building smaller beams like you are thinking of the article suggested making them up to 8" long and about 6" by 6" as I recall. A pair of them on sawhorses, according to the article, made a fine worksurface. I may trip over that article again. If so, I can cite where I found it.

Nice ideas

PGJ