: Dull chisels are a disaster. Did you sharpen it after you bought
: it/before you used it? Did you use it bevel up, or bevel down?
: If it's a concave surface, you should use the chisel bevel down,
: if it's convex, use bevel up. If it's sharp, you won't need to
: use a hammer- you shouldn't use a hammer. You should push it,
: called "paring." Push the chisel right along the line
: you're trying to cut. If it doesn't cut easily, cut on a skew at
: first. Chisels are easy to use with decent technique and a sharp
: edge.

: Just my 2¢.

: m

Further thoughts:

The importance of sharp tools cannot be exaggerated. A really sharp chisel will produce a fine surface - as good as a plane. To get an extra fine cut use your right (left) hand to hold and control the chisel and use the left (right) thumb to slide the edge sideways as it slices off an almost transparent paring. This gives you great control.

A sharp edge lasts longer as there is less stress on the edge material. If the chisel comes with an edge protector use it; if not make one from a piece of wood with a slot in it. Chisels are delicate - don’t store them close to files and other “ruffian” tools. Don’t let any edged tool get blunt - it takes a more work to get them sharp again than it does to keep them that way. Chisels are like plane blades: for curly -or cross-grain sharpen the chisel at a shallower angle. For heavy work use a coarser angle.

For making guide cuts for small mortises I use a dowel cutoff saw; I clamp a block at the line and use the saw with the non-marring side toward the block - very precise.

A routing table is also handy for rabbets. However, if you use an outer or false stem the rabbet for the planking is not required, but the stem dimensions will change.

An inexpensive and very useful rasp for a quick fix is the “four-in-one” - it has a round and a flat side and both fine and course surfaces. It can be rough on the hands so I have others that are better for extended use but this is the one I use the most. Lee Valley Tools sell it among others.

On the subject of (handheld) belt sanders, I very rarely use mine since I acquired a bench-mounted combined belt and disc sander. Much more accurate. For scarfing thin strips I now use the disc sander with a guide clamped to the table; it is quicker and more accurate than anything else I have tried including a plane, a chop saw and a router, and the sander needs no jig. When using the belt for thin pieces wear leather gloves and always install the projectile catcher that comes with the tool!