Paul: thanks for the detailed information! I won’t quote your answer to save space -

I get by with one gluing jig to scarf the strips for several reasons. I use Titebond III which it sets up very fast when clamped; after 10 minutes I can remove the strip carefully: in that time I can make the pieces for the next strip. I prepare the strips a few at a time as I don’t have much space. I could save time by scarfing the boards as you do, but then I would have to open the garage door for thickness planing and it’s still Winter here.

I don’t use station molds, the hull shape is defined by laminated ribs, the strips are glued to those. Not the usual way - more of an experiment really. It’s too springy for stapling. The staples would speed up the stripping but I probably save time overall not making the molds and it’s certainly cheaper.

The ribs all have the same profile so the strips do not twist so that part of the hull’s a barrel shape * as you said - the rocker doesn’t affect it. The stems were supposed to be a projection of the rib shape and their shape was obtained after the ribs were made. Then I decided to remake the ribs to get a nicer shape, and forgot to redo the stems! Partway through the stripping I realized that was causing the strips to twist. However, as I get around the curve of the bilge it looks like the problem is going away, and the strips are starting to fall into place now. I no longer need clamps at the stems, just tape, and the rolling bevels are starting to flatten out too.

* Later I will find out what the hull shape is like in the water: FreeShip says the drag’s OK.

The Canadian Canoe Museum is a few hours drive away and I have met some of the restorers there. The method you describe is like the wide plank and batten method; those guys will occasionally turn out a new canoe from scratch using an old mold with iron strips that turn the ends of the tacks over. It is fascinating to watch. It’s a great place, I got a tour through their warehouse and they have acres of dugouts, plank boats, racing canoes, Inuit and Greenland kayaks under cover and waiting for TLC.

Your mention of the use of bungee cords reminded me of my plans for my next canoe, using the lines of the Wee Lassie by Rushton: I will have to stretch it to 12 feet to accommodate my dimensions. For that build I plan to cut ply planks to developed shapes but with an extra 3/8" or so for the laps. I have an idea for forming the hull dry using bungees so I can glue all the laps at the same time. The method is similar to the lapstitch technique but there are no stitches and no forms either. Every canoe I make is different so I try to avoid making forms - yet another experiment . . .