Thanks
I tried responding yesterday, computer crash,
Where was I?
Rubber hinges sound good. If I hadn't started what I'm doing, I'd definitely use this method.
Backing with aluminum strip, pop rivets, good. Hypalon. I googled it. The plant in Texas is closing. I also couldn't find anything thicker than 1/8",
Multiple layers makes me think mold and mildew.
I did come across an image of rubber gate hinges made from a pair of beach sandals. I suppose the obvious solution would be pieces of old car tires.
--One thing that really helps any sloppiness from rubber hinges are the rudder cables--this will keep the peddles in place. -Definitely use the self-adjusting method.
Might also be a good idea to add a patch of rubber behind my hinges as support.

Yesterday I added the first layer of carbon fiber over the tubes glued in place, worked well. (Did I mention that the drinking straws I'd used to align the tubes pulled out clean.

The first few (failures) times I saturated the carbon fiber (CF) then laid it on. Goopy, sloppy, difficult to handle. This time I brushed some epoxy onto the tops of the tubes, and surrounding plywood, then laid on the CF. There are some voids that will fill when adding more layers.

I think I've got some better ideas--for the Hinge method.
First, forget cutting the tubes to length. instead I should just glue or tack a 5" tube, then 2-3 layers Carbon Fiber and epoxy right on top. Then after it cures, cut out the notches for the opposite hinge.
This way I'm not fussing with little strips of CF.

Biggest hassle when a peddle breaks or falls off (not-so-SmartTrack), is losing the foot brace and losing the tracking (my hull without a rudder is like a coracle) Being able to lock down the cables inside the cockpit would solve the tracking loss, and perhaps a simple cleat permanently attached to the floor of the cockpit could be an emergency foot brace in a jam. (anyone who doesn't see loss of foot bracing as a problem isn't getting all the ooomph! out of their paddling.)

Will

: It should last a heck of a lot longer than you will! Klepper's
: hulls are "rubber" (hypalon) coated and estimated to
: last 25 years. Some people are getting 50 years of service out
: of their old hull skins--but by that time they probably have
: quite a few patches. Similar "fabric" such as sections
: of sidewall from bicycle tires, should last about as long.
: Innertube material would probably last 10 to 20 years. I think
: the aluminum pop rivets would corrode away before the rubber
: wore out.

: Will there be any area where you might be able to grip the rudder
: cable with your hand from your seated position in the cockpit?
: If so, put some kind of an adjustable "stop" on it.
: Should the pedal fail you could then adjust the position of this
: stopping device to lock the pedal into a fixed position. Even if
: the pedals work perfectly, you might find that being able to
: lock the rudder will allow you to flex your feet a bit. Any kind
: of barrel lock device, such as one might find on the hood of a
: winter jacket, or a pocket on a backpack, would serve nicely.

: Otherwise, carry a knife or wire cutter, and if the pedal fails,
: reach down and cut the string or cable going to it, the tie off
: what you have to fix the rudder into a usable position. AS long
: as you have a plan for dealing with possible material failure,
: you have lots of options to experiment with. Have fun picking
: the method which suits you the most. and if you are unsure--just
: build another boat and try it!

: Unlike most other 12-step programs, Boat Builders Annonymous
: usually serves drinks after the meetings, and nobody really
: wants to kick the habit.

: PGJ