: The fittings were made in two parts. A hardwood ring, mine are
: cherry, I think and a block of secondary wood.

: Wood block:

: I started by using a scoup to carve out the bowl shape. It needs to
: be deep enough to thread the rigging line though when complete.
: I did the carving before I cut the squares from the board stock,
: bit safer and more leverage for the carving bit. Maybe this
: could be
: done with a wide rounded router bit...but that is hindsight. A
: shallow grove is cut on the table saw the length of the board
: stock to receive steel pin.
: The blocks are cut into squares, larger then the rings will be. I
: beveled the bottom of the blocks to avoid edges in the boat.

: Rings:

: This took me some time to figure out how to get perfectly
: concentric circles. The rings need to be as thick as your
: glassed and epoxied hull thickness.

: step 1: With a hole saw that has an inner diameter of your desired
: outer diameter of the finished rings, cut into material but only
: cut 1/2 way
: through.

: step 2: drill out the inner circle centering within the cut made by
: the hole saw.

: step 3: complete the outer circle with the hole saw.

: Assembly:

: coat all surfaces with epoxy

: I used stainless steel rods. The rods fit into the shallow grove in
: the block and extend past the rings. the Exended ends allows the
: rope's force to pull on the boat and not on the ring.

: You'll need to cut holes in the boat hull...after is it all
: glasses. (this is the scary part) The fillings are installed
: from within.

: Note, when I posted these years ago, there were comments about deck
: rigging should not be so close to the deck. That the rope should
: be installed proud
: of the deck to make it easier to grab while in the water. I use my
: boat on calm water so I am not concerned, but I thought I would
: share.

: I can share better quality images if you like.

: Cheers

Thanks for the description. It gives me another option to consider when I get to that point in my build.

-T-