: I want to build a S&G boat to compete in and win a Triathalon
: at the end of May 2011 I want a good fast boat but I also want
: it to be a good all around versitale boat for river and open
: water. This will be my first boat and want to keep it simple,
: thats why im going the S&G route. Any advice would be very
: welcomed.

You may want to consider a skin on frame boat for this first event. It would be faster to build. Either that, or do a quick, cheap and dirty build of a long and skinny plywood boat, like the already mentioned Pax models, and get it in the water to practice on as soon as possible. Don't even think of it for all-around kayaking. You'll need to do a fast build to have anything at all for this race.

Weight is probably not going to be a factor here, unless your race includes some portaging. If you want a boat for JUST this race, and you need it in a hurry, you may want to build it from lauan plywood, which is available at almost any big-bx home center for about $11 a sheet or less. you will probably use 4 to 6 sheets for a long boat. Start with 3 and go back for more if you need it. Scarf the three sheets into one long panel roughly 24' long while you wait for the plans to arrive. If you are building from the plans in a bok, do the plywood work first, then draw out the full sized plans on paper while the glue dries on the plywood.

layout and cut your panels for the hull. wire them together, and use your fillet in the inside seams. As soon as the polyester resin has hardened you can flip the boat, cut off the wires and tape the outside seams.

You want a simple deck. it can be flat in back, but should be arched high enough over the front so you have room for your feet. Simple decks are the fastest to apply. Bend your plywood over the deck beams and screw it into a sheer clamp. Trim off any overhang. You can use short pieces of plywood (un scarfed-8 foot panels are short in this instance!) for your decks. If you need two pieces, join them on a deck beam securing each one with screws. paint the inside of the hull, as soon as you can. Paint the underside of the deck material before you apply it so you don't have to do the job later. Get the boat on the water as soon as possible. Forget hatches.

How long of a kayak portion will there be in this race? will it be in a river, small calm lake, or open ocean with large waves? Regardless of what actual plan you decide on, now is the time to get some plywood and scarf it to a good long length. you'll want panels that are 19' to 22' long for those Pax designs, or any similar 18' to 20' boats--so get some 4mm marine ply and scarf together some long panels.

If this were my boat I'd use polyester resin and strips of bias-cut fiberglass on the seams only. Then I'l put on one coat of paint on the hull, and get it in the water for as much practice time as possible. A couple days before the race I'd sand it a little and put on a pretty second coat of paint. Maybe.

Here is my thinking: You have less than 2 months to compete, but it will take a solid week of building to assemble a boat. After that you would mormally take it easy for a week or two while the epoxy hardened. You don;t have the time to wait. Polyester will develop strength in a day or two. It works well to use polyester for the fillets and for taping the seams. the marine ply can be soaked and dried without a paint coat, or used with just a primer, so you can get the boat into the water as soon as possible for practice and for developing your response to the boat's handling characteristics. That is a very important part. The hull may be "fast" in terms of water resistance and testing in a tank, but if the paddler struggles to control it, then he can easily be passed by a person who has a "slower" hull, but who can handle it on the water.

If you can borrow a boat for 2 months and practice for the full time you have a better chance at a fast time in the race than using an unfamiliar boat.

Besides the Pax models, you might look at anything called a baidarka. the baidarka styling is generally long and thin, and those boats go fast.

A skin on frame design can be built in 4 to 5 days, and if you use a vinyl-coated skin material which does not need to be painted it will be ready to paddle in the shortest time. You want a design which uses plywood frames (fast to cut out and finish) with hardwood stringers. Scarf your boards to provide wood for the stringers first. Set the boards aside while the glue hardens. Cut out your plywood frames. paint or seal them with a coat of outdoor urethane-based varnish. It dries faster than other varnishes.

Rip the boards into strips for the stringers. Start screwing them, or lashing them in place. If you can't get all the stringers on in one day, slap a coat of some kind of fast-drying paint or urethane finish on them to seal the wood. third day finish the stringers and seal them, and fabricate a cockpit coaming. 4th day stretch the skin over the frame and attach the cockpit coaming. Take apicture and get the boat in the water for a quick paddle to establish balance and seat location. After that, practice everyday, and check to see if you need ballast to balnace the boat, or if your seat possition need adjustment to give you the best position fo rfast paddling.

Good luck with your race. Try to not breathe in any sawdust or sanding dust while building the boat. It will mess with your lung capacity and endurance in a long race.

PGJ