The steam iron modification that I use worked very well for me. I just leave it turned on when I am stripping. Since the temperature is thermostatically controlled, it is always at the desired temperature whenever I am ready to use it. One advantage that I found is that since it is clamped to a sawhorse, I can use two hands on the strip I am bending, and this makes control of twisting and bending easier for me. I found the heat gun to be a bit frustrating by comparison because one hand was busy with the gun. I was probably not doing it properly... Another advantage of the modified iron is that it heats both sides of the strip simultaneously, so bending is quick. It can be used wet or dry, but I find wet quicker, and I don't have any difficulty with the moisture interfering with gluing. The PVA (titebond) glue is part water anyway, so it really doesn't care if the wood is moist, the joint will just take slightly longer to dry. Anyway, the wood is pretty much dry due to the heat of the iron by the time I am finished bending it.

Pictures of the iron are at another thread: http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/index.cgi/md/read/id/200373/sbj/strip-heat-guns/ And yes, I have already been chastised about wiring safety - others will no doubt choose to make sure that the electrical contacts are less exposed, but the basic idea may be helpful.

Best regards,

Allan Edie

: Yep, nothing like a red-hot heatgun to take the 'white' out of a
: perfectly fine piece of basswood.... kinda screws up the accent
: lines, if you know what I mean.

: OTOH, if it's darkwood, and you're 'ebonizing', not so much a
: problem. Don't ask how I know this.