: Yeah, the single form approach generates that nice 'diamond"
: shape too . . .

: My trick to get a fair hull is to use chine logs: glue them to the
: sheer planks while flat, same with the inwales, then the plank
: is stiff enough to form a fair curve around the form(s). For my
: usual 5-plankers I do the same for the bottom: those logs are
: handy for mounting seats and foot rests. With the bottom and
: sheers in place I cut the bevels for the bilge planks with a
: hand-held power plane. Way faster than S&G, no need to tape
: the seams either but no easy way to glass the inside due to the
: step. Suits me though - I'm glassphobic!

: Same with me, gotta admit my first boat was a f/g monster that
: weighed a ton. I can't believe I used to cartop that thing. A
: garage fire took it off to a happier place.

: My current build has ribs, it's bit of a throwback but I love the
: look. The ribs are laminated not steamed - that has bit of a
: James Bond sound - they were formed and set up before stripping,
: so they acted as station molds. Very tricky getting them
: identical because with that method it's virtually impossible to
: fix an unfair hull.

I enjoy the more traditional way of building, would love to take the time someday to build a traditional lapstrake canoe with steam bent tiny ribs. Should be all copper rivited with no glue. It's actually not all that slow to build once you get into it. Would make a nice winter project when it's too icky outside to do more than blow snow ;)

Have a friend locally that builds strippers with steamed ribs, very thin strips so the boat is pretty light when it's done, they are all copper rivited too. Awfully pretty boats, almost too pretty to use.

Bill H.