: Thanks for all the input everyone! right now i am looking at the
: yost sea bee and the chuckanut 12. i started to plot out all the
: sections of the sea bee in auto cad. Yost has a pretty great
: write up of a sea bee build on his site. this appears to be an
: older single chine version. that version appears to longer be
: available on his site and has been replaced with a multi chine
: version. I'm assuming the multi chine version is stronger due to
: 3 chines on each side as opposed to the single, is that true?
: the multi chine to me seems like it would be more difficult? I'm
: a little confused on where to "notch" the sections to
: hold the chines. are the vertices on the sections the center of
: the chines or a bottom edge? (not sure if that makes sense) are
: there any other good write ups online that show how to build a
: multi chine kayak in the Yost fashion? I still plan to look into
: the C12 once i receive the plans i sent for. thanks for the
: input.

: Justin

Multi chine doesn't add strength, but alters the hull shape giving different performance options. According to Tom his designs do not do as well as single chine over 22" due to the distance between the keel and the chine. Hence his redesgn of the Sea Bee, the sea tour 15 being single with a 22" beam, while the sea tour 15 exp is multi with the 24" beam. I went ahead and built a yarra against Tom's advice, and have been happy with it, but he says my new sea bee will get much better performance and be more fun due to the multi chine design.

Your also not the only one to cad draft the cross sections. I don't have the cnc, but full size print outs are much faster then hand layout...

John