: One thing that I could change on the deck shoulder is to make them
: run straight all the way forward instead of curve. Any thoughts?

Actually, I think the curve along with the gunwale is appealing. If I did it again, I think I would run the shoulder all the way to the first form, and merge it as I did, rather than notch into the form. Could still get most of the bend with heat. And, the additional length would provide leverage to get the last bit of curve.

Been meaning to mention, also, that, if practical with your software, it would be best to also provide a table of numbers, as with Yost's designs. Many that build this boat will already be familiar with that system. And, there's utility to having the numbers. Some of us like to draw the forms in Adobe Illustrator, or Inkscape. That's how I get my flowing curves in the frame cutouts. And, it helps when determining positions of deck beam notches. I had to measure points from the full-sized diagram. Measuring always introduces some degree of error. Then, when scaling, it's great to have the numbers in a spreadsheet, to do some experimenting. While it would have been possible to have the frame sections printed at 97% (as I did with the stems and coaming), then hand drawing the cutouts, and duplicating the halves, I just can't imagine working that way. I was going to offer my spreadsheet file to others (with your permission), but, the numbers will not be relevant to the new frame positions.

BTW, your stem diagrams took over right at the frames. There's really no need to make the the front stem, for example, 4 inches longer, since the keelson stub can just be extended 4 more inches (and its length is already a judgement call). But, note that a builder might be confused if using the old stem pattern with the new frame positions.