Charles,

I nearly did the same thing last week. I am nearing the end of my first build and I was going to add internal solid wooden blocks to the ends of my kayak, before joining the hull and deck. After I cut and fitted the blocks, I did a test fit of the deck to the hull and realized that I am going to need to deform them to make them fit together tightly and the solid wooden blocks that I cut would make this impossible. I don't think that I can fit these blocks in very easily once the hull and deck go together, so my efforts were probably for naught.

If you only need to take 1/8 inch or less off of the outsides, then it seems like you should be able to make them fit by planing and sanding a little bit off of both the deck and the hull, with a lot of test fitting. I figure that I will still need to do some of this after my hull and deck go together too! Hopefully, some of the experts on this forum will give us some good advice about their experiences in this area.

Greg

: I decided to do an end pour on my Great Auk 14' before I joined the
: deck and hull. I used epoxy thickened with microfibers and it
: expanded and went over the side. Made a mess I have to sand off.
: However, now when I try to join the deck to the hull I can't
: move the hull out at the bow or stern to mate up with the deck.
: I can move the deck and hull on the rest of the boat but for
: about 7 inches at the bow and stern there is no movement to the
: hull due to the solidity of the end pour. The deck overlaps the
: hull by about 1/8 " at the stern on both sides and about a
: 1/16th" at the bow. One of the solutions I have thought of
: is to plane, sand, or file the deck at these points to mate
: better with the hull. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

: Charles Robinson