: Personally I would find a 1" wide plane annoying, at least in
: the initial shaping phase, because you'd have to take two passes
: per side to level your cut, and that will be uneven, so you'd
: need a third pass or sanding to clean it up. I made a
: wide-bladed spokeshave that can do an entire side of a paddle
: blade in one pass. Then I usually go over it with a standard
: block plane to "joint" it because the spokeshave has a
: short sole and doesn't always make the flattest cuts.

: m

I guess I should clarify. I actually use a 3" power plane to make all my initial cuts. I'm quite accurate with it and it cuts down (pun intended) on the mundane tasks of roughing out the paddle by hand. It works really well on the blade tapers. I've never yet had to use a jig or band saw. Once I have the "rough" shaping done, the small 1" plane is great for doing the final shaping of the various blade faces.

My laminated WRC paddles are hollow loom. My wife's weighs in at 24oz and mine (which has been to hell and back) weighs in at 27oz.

Here's a few blog entries, if anybody is interested.

http://justyakkin2.blogspot.com/2010/05/baby-one-more-time.html

http://justyakkin2.blogspot.com/2010/11/paddle-project-x-newfoundland-paddle.html

Sean