Take a look at "resorcinol glue". I have built paddles with it and would trust it over Gorilla Glue. Weldwood is one brand name here in the states.

Reg

: Nothing to do with kayaks at all.. but in other ways you'd be hard
: pressed to find a better qualified bunch of guys to ask when it
: comes to gluing timber for use in wet places..

: I'm building a deck at my inlaws over the christmas break (it's
: summer here) and want to make a feature curved toe-piece for the
: corner of the deck bordering the lawn. Roughly a 6 foot radius
: through 90 degrees.

: It'll be 6 inch (150mm) H4 treated pine, it'll be in the sun, the
: rain, and almost constantly damp. The only thing it won't have
: to endure is being frozen any more severely than a frost. UV
: will only really affect one edge of each joint which 'should' be
: hairline anyway.

: The piece is non-structural, and will be nailed or screwed to the
: under-deck framing at regular intervals.

: My biggest concern is that the laminations will come unstuck along
: the top edges and gaps will open up. I plan to make it so that
: it springs back to a slightly larger radius than the finished
: dimension so that the inner laminations will be under
: compression once it's attached. Hopefully this will encourage it
: not to tear itself apart at the joints.

: My thoughts at the moment are to use Gorilla Glue because it's very
: strong when properly clamped during set-up, remains slightly
: flexible, and is 100% water resistant so isn't going to
: gradually come unstuck in the damp. I can't think of any benefit
: in using epoxy for this task - especially given that the timber
: is likely to be quite damp when I glue it.

: If anyone has undertaken a project like this I'd be very keen to
: hear how you went about it. I'm still trying to figure out
: whether I should make the lamination directly on the framing, or
: make a form and create the laminated section in my workshop
: before hand.

: Thanks for your thoughts!
: Simeon.