I noticed the error too, 2.25 inches got away somewhere. I just let things slide on the overhangs and made sure the stations were spaced according to plan, starting with #7 and working towards the bow. As I stripped up to the top, I noticed the strips didn't want to contact form #2. If I pushed the strip to the form (about 1/8") it would go out of fair so I let it do what it wanted. I never reconciled this but the boat worked out. I wasn't using staples so could work a little more freely. Lay some dry strips once your set up and see what you think.

Not to sound ungrateful, it's a wonderful little book from which I got a nice boat, but Mac was a little loose with some pictures and numbers. The drawing gives the thwart at 52" but the text says "about 54".

The seat caning holes don't work out to look like the picture. Follow the text and you'll have 13 holes between the corner holes, his picture shows 12. And the bottom photo on page 9 can't be a wee lassie, note the curves and use of short strips. This one scared me for a bit!

If you haven't already, check out Blue Heron Kayak (Ross Leidy) and michneboat.com, both were invaluable to me.

Ian

: I'm using Mac's book also. I found a discrepancy in his diagram. It
: shows 10'9 1/2" for the building board but when you add up
: the distances from mold to mold starting from the very end, the
: total is different.
: Did I overlook something?

: Douglas