: I got my cedar cut down into 3/16 thick strips today. I have a
: question though. Most of the time when you by wood advertised as
: 1x whatever, the 1" is usually a bit less than 1". In
: my case it was more, 1 and 1.16" to be exact.

: I realize that I will lose some to milling the B&C on them, but I
: am seriously wondering if I should split the strips I have into
: 1/2" strips prior to milling the B&C. It seems like it
: would be a lot easier to mold the bow and stern. The 1"
: width seems REALLY wide, even with a heat gun. I know it would
: be more work, but I really don't mind.

: Thoughts or suggestions on this?

If you split them there will an awful lot more cove and beading, glueing and time involved.

If you split them you are going to lose the saw kerf thickness anyway, so why not rather just take off a tad of the width on some of the strips (the ones going around the chine area for instance).

Paul is right. In many areas of the hull and the deck there will be little curve and the wider strips would be fine. Some boats have large flat sections, others not so much. I forget which you are building.

On the deck most of us seem to put in a couple of strips to define the sheer and then run the rest straight down the length. To my taste, wider strips down the deck look better.

Even fairly wide strips can be encouraged to take on even lateral curves if they are not too abrupt. The walnut strip toward the sheer on the deck in the picture below is over an inch wide and went in without any problem or heat etc.

If you have the forms set up already try bending some of your strips (before doing anything else to them) over differing parts and see how they behave. You should do this anyway to check that the forms are giving you a fair curve.

I am sure you are going to be overwhelmed by loads of feedback on this.

Et